Mont Blanc du Tacul – Gervasutti Pillar (Mont Blanc Massif)

The Gervasutti Pillar is a fantastic route on the East face of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m). Open in 1951 by Formelli and Mauro, this 900m/6a route is a classic with a great variety of climbing styles and promises a long day of action in high altitude.

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

Morgan and I took the first lift at Aiguille du Midi and started climbing just before 9am. Fortunately the relatively cold temperatures limited the rock falls in the first exposed pitches.

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

The climb on the first half of the Pillar is amazing on a great red granite.

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

On the higher part of the pillar the route goes right into the North Face.

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Unfortunately we joined the North face too early, fooled by old slings and anchors.

Petit and Grand Capucin (© P. Gatta)

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

We went on for about 3 pitches in very lose rock until we finally understood our mistake.

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

A rock hit one of our ropes that we had to cut but fortunately we lost only a few meters.

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

We abseiled down to get back, where we were 3 hours before.

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

We kept on climbing without further mistakes but 900m is definitively quite long and we reached the summit in the dark.

Gervasutti Pillar (© M. Baduel)

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)

We eventually reached the Cosmic hut around midnight quite tired and happy.

Gervasutti Pillar (© P. Gatta)